SFAS Packing List Manifesto - 2026
A manifesto? Really?!? Isn’t that bit much? Aren’t you making a mountain out of mole hill? It’s just a packing list. Just bring what they tell you to bring. The list is right there, just follow it.
That’s a fair critique. Why make this harder than it has to be? But let’s check out the list, shall we? Let’s start with something simple like gloves. The packing list states GLOVES, Light duty work type, no GORE-TEX, subdued/military colors only, civilian gloves authorized. Just pick any glove, right. But which ones? We all know that Team Week is going to tax the hell out of our grip strength. Are gloves a potential component to preserving that grip strength? They might be. Would a bad pair of gloves, with poor dexterity and a slippery palm be a hindrance? Absolutely yes. So, we want stout gloves with firm palms that will help us during low carry events, but we also want gloves with good tactile qualities so we can use them during land nav so we can protect our hands while out in the draws. So, they must be thick, but not too thick. They must be stout, but not too stout. They must be dexterous, but not flimsy. So maybe it’s not so simple.
What about a sewing kit? The packing list is pretty simple. It states, SEWING KIT military issue. What does that mean? Military issue? Have you ever been issued a sewing kit? Where does one get issued a sewing kit? CIF? Maybe your unit, but that’s probably a commercial purchase. So, the aperture expands a bit maybe. “But VooDoo, the official packing list has a picture that shows you exactly what you can bring.” Okay, but the picture shows a kit in the old digital Universal Camouflage Pattern. Does this mean that I have to find that exact pattern? The official packing list actually tells us ** EXAMPLES POSTED ON THIS PACKING LIST ARE MEANT TO REPRESENT ITEMS THAT ARE SIMILAR TO THE REQUIRED ITEMS. And do I have to have the original components? Do I have to use that cheap thin cotton thread on a paper spool that comes with the “issued” kit? What about those janky ass scissors that couldn’t cut a piece of wafer thin Skillcraft toilet paper? Can I upgrade some stuff? And what about staging it? Yes, staging it. Stuff like pre-threading the needles. Because a sewing kit is about number 99 on a list of 100 items until you blow out the crotch of your pants and your balls are hanging out in the wind. In that case, a pre-threaded needle, properly stored, with good thread can be the difference between a quick fix and a day of exposure. So, the little stuff matters.
So that’s what this MANIFESTO is. A true manifesto. We take the standard packing list and pick it apart. Some stuff is just stuff. But a lot of this stuff has nuance. Good gear matters and if we can squeeze out a little bit of advantage out of something simple like what gloves we pick then we should take advantage of that opportunity. If you stack enough of these little advantages on top of each other, you wring out all of the margins for error. What we end up with is an autistic deep dive into weaponized competence. I like gear, I love good gear, and I thrive when I get to overthink mundane stuff. Yes, we are making mountains out of molehills, but they are molehills that we are willing to die on. Because this is the sort of stuff that matters when it matters. We are zealots, and zealots write manifestos. We’ll try our best to highlight these tirades as Manifesto Moments so you can skip over our ranting if you’re just here for the gear recommendations, but you can’t get the juice without a little squeeze. Let’s get started!
Let’s start with the list itself. We’ll keep an updated copy available for download right here at TFVooDoo.com, but the SORB has done an excellent job with both building and maintaining an exceptional Excel spreadsheet. This is our base document to which we will add all of our deep analysis. They even went so far as to post links to pictures of the actual items. This should be foolproof, but as we’ve already discussed with the sewing kit, this can also make it more confusing. The packing list spreadsheet is tabbed and has return hyperlinks within the base document. In our analysis we will provide the discussion of the item, our recommendation, our selection criteria, and some hyperlinks of our own. Our hyperlinks are often Amazon affiliate links. These are sponsored and we make a very tiny fraction of a commission if you use our link.
And we need that tiny fraction because we have been singlehandedly propping up the economy during our research for this manifesto. We have a rule: we absolutely do not recommend a product unless we have personally purchased and tested each item. It must pass our testing and evaluation, and we do not accept sponsors. If we recommend a product, it’s because we purchased and tested it ourselves. So, we use the affiliate links to defray some of our costs. What we recommend is a fraction of what we actually bought and tested; on average we purchased and tested six products for each recommendation that we make. We work hard to maintain the links and ensure that you are actually getting what we recommended. It’s just the nature of the online marketplace that some products get switched as a matter of routine. If you order an item and it’s not what you expect or what we promoted, please let us know. We will work to update the link or if the product is no longer available, we’ll find a suitable replacement.
We’re trying to defray our costs just like were trying to keep you from wasting your own money. And it’s no small investment. We did the math, and while you don’t necessarily pay for your issued items, they still cost money. A baseline packing list might look like this – Mandatory items - $2,935; TA-50 items - $2,615; Optional but authorized items – $1,176, conservatively. Many people purchase TA-50 on their own so they maintain top quality gear instead of CIF issued dumpster quality, and the optional items can vary in cost and quality immensely, so the total cost can easily get as high as $7,000 or more! We believe in the buy once cry once philosophy where you buy the highest quality gear that you can afford so that you can avoid continuously purchasing and replacing crappy gear which ends up costing you more in the long run. With all of this in mind, let’s get to the list.
Administrative
The first item is your paperwork. The list states: STUDENTS MUST BRING (5) COPIES OF THEIR ORDERS, (2) COPIES OF THE SFAS PHYSICAL, (1) COPY OF THE ERB/ORB, DEFENSE LANGUAGE APTITUDE BATTERY (DLAB) AND/OR TEST OF BASIC ADULT EDUCATION (TABE) IF APPLICABLE, ELECTRONIC PERSONNEL SECURITY QUESTIONNAIRE (EPSQ) HARDCOPY & DIGITAL. Its paperwork. Print it out, have good clean copies, and maybe bring additional copies just in case. Be diligent and bring absolutely everything. You don’t want to be the guy that’s scrambling to get a copy of something sent to you from your buddy, or your wife, or God forbid your unit. I’ve seen more than a few guys sent home because they were missing stuff. We also recommend scanning everything and uploading to a digital drop box that you can access remotely. This way, if you lose your physical stuff, you can still get a copy. This paperwork will be checked before the shakedown as you in-process, but it will get called out for accountability during. Bring your stuff in a durable document folder that will help you stay organized and keep you from looking like a clown when you hand in a torn and dog-eared file. You will note that the packing list includes a copy of the signed packing list (INSPECTOR MUST BE A SERGEANT OR ABOVE, AND PREFERABLY YOUR SORB RECRUITER; INSPECTER SHALL PRINT, SIGN, AND PROVIDE A PHONE NUMBER AND CURRENT POSITION). And it includes your inspectors name and phone number so they can call back and find out if you’re lying about being told to bring an unauthorized item. I’ve never seen this get inspected, but Camp Mackall is an upside-down world, and I’d hate to see a guy get dinged for such a simple thing.
The next items are your IDENTIFICATION CARD (ID) and your ID TAGS with Breakaway Chain (Medical Alert Tags or Bracelet if required). Not too much to analyze here, just make sure they match and that you have the right quantity.
Baggage
Next is the Duffel Bag (green or brown clothing and sales/CIF issue only, no suitcases, no roller bags), three of them. You will have all of your gear at the shakedown layout and as it’s called off you will place it in one of the duffel bags. Two of them are for your authorized items and the third is for your unauthorized stuff. You can also stuff your rucksack full, but I would stick your TA-50 in the ruck as you need to be cognizant of longer-term storage in the barracks. You can only secure and transport what you can fit in the duffel bags so don’t get too cute with your packing. And don’t bring one of those zippered duffel bags as they tend to blow out under duress. And your bags will be under duress. You don’t want to be dealing with a blow out on top of everything else.
You can’t use one of those big rolling wall lockers. It’s duffel bags. Regular old top-opening duffel bags. 3 of them. That’s it. Leave your dead hooker bags for deployment, not SFAS. By the way, I don’t care that calling it a dead hooker bag is insensitive. I used that term in an InterAgency environment once it earned some consternation. When I say dead hooker bag you know exactly what I’m talking about. It’s not brand specific, so it’s inclusive. It’s very descriptive, so its accurate. And it’s concise, so its efficient. Efficient and effective communication is my forte, so dead hooker bag it is.
Uniforms
You will need a regular uniform with all of your patches and flair. OCP GARRISON UNIFORM (complete with patches, flag, rank, name tape, service, and cover) Your daily wear uniform during SFAS is a “sterile” uniform with engineer tape on which you will write your assigned roster number. But when you report in and when you out-process, you will need a regular uniform. Nobody will say anything if you don’t have your special skills badges sewn on, but I’ll be silently judging you for not having any special skills. You’ll get them eventually, but you are less of a man until you do. As a side note, have you noticed the recent surge of social media posts of guys showing off the new Ram’s Head of the Mountain Warfare School? Something that I’ve noticed is that the guys that are most proud of that gaudy badge also don’t have a Ranger tab. Curious. I don’t make the rules, I just follow them.
Next is your daily wear uniforms. CAP, OCP, MULTICAM (No rank, branch insignia, cat eyes, or other badges authorized); TROUSERS, OCP, MULTICAM; COAT, OCP, MULTICAM. A few things to note here. First, jungle or desert uniforms are unauthorized. FRACUs are authorized, but don’t bring FRACUs. There is a risk here. First, these uniforms don’t breathe as well. Second, they are generally not as durable. Third, they generally don’t dry as fast. And fourth, you look like a nerd. You are standing out in a domain in which you do not want to stand out. Finally, there have been discussions of making the FRACUs unauthorized, and you will be left in a lurch. Just get some regular serviceable uniforms and have them prepared appropriately.
Uniforms must have engineer tape sewn as per SFAS Standard Operating Procedures. A patch on the shoulder sleeves and a patch on each leg below the cargo pocket. Any sew shop on Yadkin can take care of you. They know the SOP better than you do. Cyre, Patagonia, Combat uniforms with knee pad slots or additional pockets are not authorized. Regular unforms, in good serviceable condition, with the engineer tape appropriately sewn on. Don’t make this harder than it has to be.
Boots
Boots, oh boy the boots. This is the topic that I dread discussing. Three topics elicit the most vitriolic rhetoric – boots, socks, and which regional cuisine is the best. For the record, the Pittsburg Primanti’s Brothers sandwich is superior to any Philly Cheesesteak and Texas brisket is superior to any of that Kansas City burnt ends trash and while I love Carolina whole hog, brisket is beef and beef is ‘Merica! The packing list calls for BOOTS (all boots IAW AR 670-1, no GORE-TEX, no Temperate Weather boots, no buckles).
First off, anyone who has the sheer temerity to wear tanker boots (buckles) to SFAS should be immediately performance dropped and given a Never To Return. Shameful. And I was a tanker and actually owned tanker boots (we were required to purchase them). But boots are so contentious because everyone has a different experience. This makes sense, as everyone has different feet, so you’re going to have a different fit and a different experience. And when you get a bad fit the pain is, quite literally, unbearable. So, brand loyalty is a logical conclusion. And the options are near endless.
The packing list is quite clear all boots IAW AR-670-1. Let’s be clear…not all boots that you can get away with wearing at your slacker unit, but all boots IAW AR 670-1. That’s a massive list of potential candidates and the stuff available today is really well made. Premium quality, endless fitment options, and well-designed, high-performance materials. The synthetic leathers are quick drying and durable. The soles are grippy and pliable, but protective. Endless options. About the only thing that I’ve seen get rejected is a wraparound toe on the boot, where the sole forms up in a solid piece to cover the toe cap. You can wear cool-guy Salomons, Lowas, and No Bulls once you become a cool guy, but for now you’re a candidate.
No matter how hard I try to stay out of this fist fight, I get a near constant supply of questions about which boots are the best. I don’t wear combat boots anymore, so I’m not emotionally invested in this argument, and maybe that makes me the perfect guy to render some judgment here. I am a Gear Queer, I am oddly autistic when it comes to this stuff, and I love feet (I don’t love feet…I think they’re nasty) so let me give this is a go. I can’t possibly cover all of the available styles and cover all of the variables, so let me just give you my Top 5 choices and let you decide which boot is best for you, and your feet, and your socks, and your insoles.
All of these choices are lightweight, dry quickly, reasonably durable, offer acceptable ankle support and foot protection, and are AR -670-1 compliant. What you are looking for is balance between sneaker-like for comfort and boot like for durability and support/protection. You’re not likely to find both, so you decide where on the spectrum you want to plant your flag. In no particular order:
Oakley LT Assault Boot - Multiple options within the line.
Garmont T8 NFS - Flatter sole, more like a running shoe
Garmont T8 Bifida - More Aggressive sole with heel, probably better for rope climbing and cross country.
Rocky SV2 - Medium sole, no drainage hole, slightly more supportive in ankle than the Garmonts.
Nike SFB - A couple of style options and guys either love these or absolutely hate them.
Honorable Mention: OTB M-Carbon - These were specifically made for ruck running and they are great for that, but the softer foam midsole and lighter construction does result in a less durable overall boot in terms of field wear.
Honestly, I would try them all (and others) and pick the one that fits you best. Then get three pairs of them and wear them all evenly so that you show up with three sets of perfect boots regardless of the activity. If you need a specific boot for rucking and a specific boot for rope climbing and a specific boot for land nav then you’re over-specializing. Don’t forget that your boots work as part of a system along with your insoles, your socks, and of course your individual foot.
SOPC Specials – There is a variation of boots called the SOPC Special. This isn’t a brand, but rather a modification to existing boots. Almost every boot shop at Bragg can do them and I’ve not found one that does them better or worse consistently. The SOPC Special is a boot that has been gutted of its heel and toe cups and add a special sole. This makes them lighter, but it also makes them less supportive and less protective. You probably don’t want to wear SOPC Specials at land nav because you’ll end up banging your toes a bunch and your heel is unprotected. But they are lighter and will dry quicker because there is little lining. They also glue on a lightweight EVA sole. The preferred sole is very soft but doesn’t have much tread/grip. So SOPC Specials are great for controlled environment rucks and ruck/runs, but less good for cross country and field environments, although plenty of guys have worn them as such. Lots of boot shops have pairs that they’ve already modified and are ready for sale, but I would recommend taking an existing pair that you already broke in and having them modified. That’s if you decide to do the modification.
Manifesto Moment - For the young bucks that like to think that they know everything, this mod has been around since boots have been around. The mod used to be especially popular with old-school jungle boots. The intent was to remove the steel shank “punji plate” (so named because it was designed to protect against punji stake impalement in Vietnam…yes, it’s that old) and replace the Panama No-clog sole with a different sole. The soft rubber of the Panama sole often wore down faster than the rest of the boot deteriorated. The replacement led to super soft soles with better impact resistance which led to the search for more comfort which led to the heel and tow cup removal. This is 50-year-old stuff, so SOPC Specials are the product of old-timers, not an indictment of them.
Snivel
This is your long underwear, the lowest two levels of your extended cold weather clothing system (DRAWERS, Cold Weather; Military issue Poly-Pro or Gen III, level-1-bottoms; DRAWERS, Cold Weather; Military issue Poly-Pro or Gen III, level-2-bottoms; UNDERSHIRT, Cold Weather; Military issue Poly-Pro or Gen III level-1-tops; UNDERSHIRT, Cold Weather; Military issue Poly-Pro or Gen III level-2-tops). Level 1 is commonly referred to the “silkies” and Level 2 is commonly referred to as the “waffle top” (although it’s not always waffled”. There are 4 different colors (white, sage green, brown, and black) and if you want to avoid scrutiny you should aim to have the brown stuff.
Manifesto Moment - In our first Manifesto several years ago, I introduced (re-introduced?) the “Breakaway Jakes”. Breakaway Jakes are long underwear that has been modified with a velcro closure along the outside of the legs. This simple modification allows you to doff and don your long underwear without taking off your boots. These used to be standard issue stuff and every ground-pounder who spent any time in the field had a pair. In the intervening years I’ve had so many guys tell me that they had some made and they changed their entire snivel game. It seems like a minor thing but being able to keep your legs warm until the last possible moment before movement, then quickly pull them off without doffing your boots, is a big deal. Little comforts like this go a long way when you’re really sucking.
GLOVES, Cold Weather (LEATHER GLOVES WITH INSERTS ONLY, NO GORTEX, O.R. GLOVES ETC)
We’re going to deep dive gloves in a moment, but for this item just bring the issued black leather gloves with wool inserts. I know that they’re not great gloves, but they’re good enough for our purposes. The build quality and fit are a little inconsistent and the performance is low. You might consider taking a pair of the leather gloves and spending some time conditioning them with a high-quality leather conditioner. Regular old mink oil is a fine choice, but let me make a pitch for Obenauf Leather Heavy Duty Leather Preservative (LP). This stuff is like heirloom quality mink oil. They also make a Leather Conditioner (LC) that is very good but is an oil (versus a thick paste). The oil is better suited for more delicate leathers, so depending on the condition of your leather, the LC might be a better choice than the LP. New gloves are probably ready for LP, older gloves might benefit from a few rounds of LC treatment, then some LP.
Manifesto Moment - This might be a good time to hop up on the ol’ soap box and discuss the virtues of equipment maintenance. I know that this is a Special Forces packing list, but the Ranger Creed reminds us, “…my care of equipment shall set the example for others to follow.” If you’re going to follow the buy once, cry once philosophy then you should endeavor to not buy prematurely often and taking care of your gear becomes more critical. Plus, if your mistreated gear fails in the field, replacing it isn’t really an option. So, gear maintenance is a virtue worthy of your endeavors.
As such, purchasing stuff like leather conditioner is just the cost of doing business. I’ve had the same tub of Obenauf’s LP for years, so the cost is negligible when amortized. I’ve had the same bottle of zipper lube and conditioner for years, making the cost insignificant. As we go through this Manifesto, we’ll keep track of all the little maintenance items and techniques and we’ll “build the kit” as we go. When we’re done, we’ll have a repair and maintenance kit to add to your toolbox. Literally a toolbox. It can be extensive, but we find that a little investment in maintenance items over time results in a robust capability pretty quickly. Many of my repair kit items are 30 years old and in perfect working condition.
GLOVES, Light duty work type, no GORE-TEX, subdued/military colors only, civilian gloves authorized
This is a pretty broad mandate here. So long the gloves aren’t Gore-Tex and are subdued colors they should be good to go. But if you’ve been in the market for gloves then you know that the options are endless. Fitment can vary wildly, including within the same company between models and even between sizes of the same model. Build quality, features, durability, materials…the list is near endless. If you just want something to keep your hands from getting scratched up in the draws during land nav then there isn’t much to your decision. But if you want something that can enhance (or at least not hinder) your grip a little bit AND protect your hands, then we’ve got some digging to do.
Let’s start with our analytical framework – what are the things we want to compare or what features are important to us. I chose five items to compare – Durability, Dexterity, Snot/sweat, Grippiness, and Fit. Most of these are pretty self-evident. Dexterity and durability are obvious. We want the gloves to be thick enough to be durable, but not so thick that we lose dexterity. So it’s a balance. Fit and grippiness are also fairly obvious, but part of fit is more than just “does your hand fit in the glove”. Little things like how the seams align, how the glove is constructed, and how the glove is finished can have a big impact. Cheaper gloves can have lots of excess material in the fingertips or in the knuckle seams and ruin the feel. The perfect fit can produce odd folds that compromise the texture when the palm is curled. So it’s not just one thing, and it’s not just in one use-case. We want the perfect glove for SFAS.
We don’t really care about touchscreen sensitivity as you won’t have any screens to touch, and we don’t really care about a lanyard grommet as you can’t have carabiners (this is explicitly called out on the hydration system but seems to be universally applied). But the snot/sweat feature is a sneaky one. It’s not even something that you would likely think about at all…until your nose is chapped and bleeding because you wiped it on the back of your rough textured gloves too many times. Have fun walking around with a crusty nose and having to deal with that instead of focusing on just looking cool. So, if I can find a pair of gloves that protects my hands, fits comfortably, enhances grip, and lets me painlessly wipe my brow and nose then that’s my goal. Here is my top 3 list:
Petzl CORDEX Gloves - I’m specifically citing the Cordex gloves, NOT the Cordex Plus. The Plus version are slightly thicker (and thus more durable), but the backs of the Plus version has a leather insert that feels like sandpaper after a couple of swipes on a tender nose. The version I like are these lightweight, surprisingly breathable, full double palm versions. When new, the leather is a bit “slick”, so I scuffed them with a cleaning pad (yes, add these to your maintenance kit…don’t steal them from the supply closet even though they are the exact same thing) and they grip much better. You might soak them in water and wear them until dry while working a rough rope to really get them grippy. These feel like they were made to grip rope handles, tubular nylon, and ammo cans. And they’re dexterous enough that you can use them as shooting gloves. Hands down, no pun intended, the best general purpose SFAS gloves I tested. Pro Tip – You can use the cleaning pad to buff the knit material on the back of the gloves and make it more “fleece-like”. Yes, I hate a chapped nose.
HWI Gear TFR100 Tactical Fast Rope Glove - These are very similar to the Petzl gloves in their fit and feel. They are almost identical except they have a small leather insert on the back that is pretty smooth, but after a bit gets annoying for snot and sweat. The palms are goat leather and are built with the split side out (rough/suede) as opposed to the “slicker” side on the Petzls. This makes for better grippiness right out of the box, but overall, with a little bit of prep, I prefer the Petzls.
Metolius Full Finger Belay Glove
https://www.amazon.com/Metolius-Full-Finger-Belay - These are the nice little love child of the Petzls and the HWIs. They have the split side out on the palm for enhanced grippiness right out of the box and the backs are butter soft leather. Not fleece soft, but soft. If you could modify these with a patch of soft fleece or similar material on the back, they be a slam dunk #1. The only “downside” might be that they are full leather, so they don’t breathe as well. But this might be a plus if you are going in the winter. They’re not insulated, so I wouldn’t call them warm, but they are certainly warmer than the other two. And that little bit of palm pad that extends around the side of the face is really nice for a rope handle. I have a pair at my leather guy shop right now getting modified with my fleece patch, but I’m extra. What? You don’t have a custom leather guy on call?
Watch Cap
A watch cap (WATCH CAP, Military issue Micro Fleece, military colors only) should be considered in the same light as life support equipment. Vital gear that is accounted for like sensitive items. Serial numbered, dummy corded, and regularly inventoried. Even in the summer. You’re allowed two at SFAS and I suggest a divide and conquer mentality. You want a heavyweight one for when its really cold or when your lounging around not generating lots of heat. You don’t have to worry about fitting it under a helmet, so you can get something a little bulkier if you like it. We prefer this Condor Microfleece Beanie.
Condor gets a bad rap as cheap LARPer gear and that’s not an unfair assessment for lots of their stuff, but this fleece cap is pretty basic. A good price, a fine product, and while it lists as lightweight, we grade is as more midweight. A solid choice. If you didn’t care about the military issue part and you want something a little more bespoke then check out this Arc’teryx toque (they’re Canadian, they’re different). The point is really one mid/heavyweight and one lightweight, regardless of brand.
For the lightweight one you want to focus on two elements comfort and comfort. That’s right, comfort. Consider this your loungewear, so we’re not really too worried about performance. You can certainly use it during activities, so wicking might be a characteristic that you consider. But this item is a true comfort item. It should be a little over-sized, so it fits loosely. It should be very soft so merino wool, or cotton is a good pick, but anything super soft is fine. And it should be a little longer, so it fits down over your head, not just on top. We like something like this off-brand lightweight cotton “sleep hat”. This is a great product description because that’s really what we’re using this for, sleeping. A nice, soft, loose-fitting hat that you slide down over your eyes and helps you get better sleep (for better recovery) is really all we’re thinking about. If you want a merino wool version for a few extra shekels then this one is pretty good. Just cut the little tag off and it looks like an issued item.
More broadly, you should always have a watch cap in your kit. Even if it’s just a simple lightweight one, the watch cap is elite tier snivel. Sliding it on when the temperature dips just a little bit can make all of the difference in the world. A little bit of comfort to take the sting out of the cold, a little bit of comfort to help you to sleep better, and a little bit of comfort to reduce your cognitive load. We cover watch caps specifically in our Land Nav Musters for this express purpose. Regulating body temp throughout the range of activity levels that a normal land nav training day presents helps support performance and reduce cognitive load. And it’s such a small item that it’s zero burden to stuff one just about anywhere.
Underwear
Manifesto Moment - Let’s talk about your balls. Well…let’s talk about the banana hammock and not the actual banana. Let’s talk underwear (UNDERWEAR, (Military color only, non-compression, no spandex, MUST BE COTTON ONLY), and we should start by noting that you shouldn’t be wearing underwear. Underwear complicates hygiene in the field. Conventional wisdom might have you think otherwise, as underwear provides a barrier between your nasty ass and sack and your pants. But you are an aspiring commando, so you should go commando. I am biased because my dominant operational environment while serving was a jungle, with all of the accompanying water, funk, and jungle rot. The name of the game in the jungle is to try to keep as dry as possible, which is impossible, but getting stuff “aired out” is essential. I’ve seen skin start to rot – literal rot – in just a few days when kept wet. And once it starts to go – it goes quickly.
So, wearing underwear is a complication in this environment. I submit that it is similarly a complication in SFAS. You will hear many philistines tout the utility of wearing Ranger Panties as underwear. They are authorized (Ranger Shorts - military/subdued colors, no logos) but they are an inferior product for underwear. To be clear, Ranger Panties are awesome shorts. We should adopt them as the only authorized PT uniform shorts. We’ll cover this deeper later, but right now we’re talking about underwear, and ranger Panties have no place in this conversation.
Many aspiring candidates train with some sort of compression short, or at least some sort of athletic fit boxer brief underwear. There are some great options out there for this. Tommy Johns are always high on most people’s list and they are pretty good, but my favorite is icebreaker Men's Merino 150 Anatomica Boxers (yes, its icebreaker with a lowercase “i”). These are top tier, and they made me reevaluate my thoughts on merino wool. These things are soft, cooling, comfortable, and legit performance clothing. They’re not compression shorts, but they do have a little spring to them. But neither of these are authorized for SFAS. The point is, you should start to condition your undercarriage the same way that you condition your feet. If you come to rely on more gear in the field, then you have to have more gear in the field.
At SFAS the requirement is for military color only, non-compression, no spandex, MUST BE COTTON ONLY. The obsession against spandex/compression seems illogically virulent, but as it was explained to me it makes sense. Compression shorts can hide a small injury, like a muscle strain or joint damage, and that can allow a Candidate to progress in the training to a point of more serious, even permanent, damage. I covered this is Ruck Up Or Shut Up in the Silver Bullet War Story, but the focus on spandex is really just a measure to protect candidates from themselves. It’s a noble cause as the pressure to perform can push some guys into dangerous territory. Exponentially more Candidates seek medical drops from relatively minor injuries, but there are some that are so determined to not quit, that an outright ban on compression clothing is a good thing.
The other thing here is that you can pick some “high-performance” boxer briefs that provide comfort, support, and some measure of wicking and as long they don’t appear like high-performance compression shorts. If the label doesn’t show the fiber content and they don’t look peculiar, you’re likely to be just fine. The smartest move would be to simply pack a few Army issued pairs to check the box and train and condition yourself appropriately. But you could likely get away with a little subterfuge here. I’m not advocating for cheating; I’m just giving you lay of the land. If underwear is the determining factor to your success at SFAS then it’s safe to say that you might reconsider your commitment to the cause.
There are a couple of things to consider with eyewear. EYE GLASSES with retainer bands (military issued if required) NO TINT, NO TRANSITION LENSES and EYE PROTECTION APEL (Clear Lens only, with inserts if required). First, contact lenses are not authorized. So, if you have corrected vision then you need to bring your glasses. Just bring the rugged stuff so that you don’t have to worry about it. Sunglasses, even prescription lenses, are not authorized. So, transition lenses will get you hemmed up. Second, eye protection is required during land nav. Failure to have on eye pro is a safety violation and can result in an immediate drop.
Manifesto Moment - I often point this out at our Land Nav Musters and I rarely, if ever, find guys who are regularly training in eye pro. This is a mistake. I hate wearing eye pro. It’s annoying, hinders sweat management, and they fog up too easily. When I went to SFAS they were authorized but not required. A kid actually took a stick right into his eye. It must have been a couple of inches deep into the corner of his eye. I’m wincing as I write this just remembering seeing him getting it pulled out. Nasty stuff. So, you should be training with eye pro on. A land nav session is just a rucking session, but cross-country. So you should be rucking with eye pro on.
The packing list specifies APEL, which is the Authorized Protective Eyewear List. Finding the right set to fit your face and peculiar specifications is too specific to declare a definitive winner here, but I like the Oakley M Frames. They are lightweight, very comfortable, and seem to resist fogging on my face shape the best. The ESS Crossblade is the poor man’s version, but it’s not as light and the heavier temples are annoying in my periphery.
PT UNIFORM: Jacket, Pants, Long Sleeve Shirt, Short Sleeve Shirt, Shorts *(Complete)* That’s it. Bring the full uniform, even if it’s the Summer. Make sure the entire uniform is in good condition, so you can get full use of it in the times when you get to be more comfortable. Don’t overthink it.
Lots of guys really pontificate over their running shoe choice. SHOES, RUNNING. Trail shoes vs racing flats? Rugged sole vs traditional gription? Waterproof or lightweight? There are only a few timed runs. All of the runs are on a combo of paved, hardpacked dirt/sand, some gravel, and some loose sand. So, you don’t need a super aggressive and supportive hardcore trail shoe. But you probably want something with a little structure. I like something like New Balance Fresh Foam Garoe V1 or the Saucony Xodus Ultra. But honestly, I would just bring whatever shoes you trained in. You’ve probably gone through a whole process of trial and error so you might as well stick with what you like. You can only bring one pair.
For your SOCKS, Athletic, just bring whatever socks you normally wear but don’t get too cute with trying to “sneak in” toes socks under the guise of SOCKS, Athletic and claim that they aren’t BOOT SOCKS so they aren’t covered under the no toe socks restriction for that item. There are plenty of opportunities to advantageously interpret the packing list, but socks are not one to get too cute with. I love toes socks for running and they’re perfect for the sandy conditions that you’ll be running in. But you “sneaking” them in as Athletic socks and then wearing them with your boots is too cute.
Manifesto Moment – This is probably a good time to discuss the actual conduct of the equipment inspection, or shakedown, at SFAS. There are videos of this floating around on social media so I’m not giving away any secrets here and you likely need someone to keep you from getting yourself hemmed up. Lots of guys will say stuff like, “I had X, Y, or Z and nobody said anything!” Which could very easily be true. The way it works is that the entire class dumps out all of their gear in a massive formation. Cadre spread themselves out amongst the crowd and loosely supervise about a dozen or so Candidates. A senior Cadre member calls out the item from his list, and you hold the item up for inspection. Your supervising Cadre will look at you and tell you to put it in your bag.
Sometimes that supervising Cadre member is standing right next to you, but often he is twenty feet away or more. He might not get an unobstructed view of the exact item that you brought. This isn’t a prison cell shakedown and it’s a fairly relaxed environment. The idea is that if you have an item that might be questionable, you should bring that very clearly to the Cadre’s attention and ask for adjudication. If there is question, he’ll get clarification from another Cadre or the Senior Assessor. Some stuff is obvious, if you’ve got a pair of compression shorts that look like compression shorts you should know that they aren’t authorized, and they should go in your unauthorized bag. But, if you have a pair of normal looking underwear that you cleverly cut the tag out of to obfuscate their fiber content, then you could quite easily toss them in your authorized bag and “sneak” them in.
This goes for almost any piece of gear. You could easily sneak in just about anything because the environment is relaxed and the Cadre aren’t prison guards. But don’t get lulled into complacency. You have the packing list. It is very clear what is and what is not authorized. So if you don’t take the tinted lenses out of your eye pro case, the Cadre are unlikely to catch it. But later down the line when you are casually going through your gear, or if the Cadre dump your ruck for inspection (which can and will happen at any time) and you have some tinted lenses, guess what happens. It doesn’t matter that you weren’t actually wearing them. It makes no difference if it’s two minutes or two weeks after the inspection. You now have an unauthorized piece of gear. And you’re now an integrity violation.
So, imagine if you go see the medic to have that knee looked at, and in the course of an innocent exam, the medic sees you in not quite right underwear. What’s your excuse? “Sarn’t So-And-So said they were good to go during the shakeout!” How far to you think that excuse is going to get you? Guys get dropped all the time for unauthorized gear. The Cadre will be very lenient and relaxed during the shakeout and the expectation is that you will do the right thing with your new-found freedom. How can I trust you do deploy and succeed in a nebulous real-world environment if you can’t be trusted to not sneak in unauthorized items into SFAS?
So, you could get cute and sneak in toe socks as athletic socks. You could hide Motrin in your sleeping bag lining. You could swap in some high-performance underwear. It’s super easy to sneak stuff in. But that’s the test. Assessment is ongoing. Everything is considered in whether or not you get to come join the Brotherhood. So, go ahead and test the limits. But just understand that with Big Boy Rules come Big Boy Consequences. The packing list is pretty clear. My experience is that you are never wrong when you do the right thing.
Once all of the items on the list have been inventoried, they’ll go over your remaining gear. They will tell you what is allowed and what has to go into your unauthorized bag. You gotta fit all of your gear into 2 duffel bags and your ruck. Your unauthorized stuff will be taken to a storage room. They will ask you if you have anything questionable or any amnesty items. It will be very clear what the expectation is. They might rifle through some stuff. Once that moment passes, it’s game on. You are fully responsible for your gear now. Assessment is ongoing.
BELT, Tan Non-Elastic (Rigger belts accepted). I recommend a simple belt. Something low profile that is ideal for rucking. Rigger belts are great, but you don’t need to tether yourself into the aircraft. You want slick and clean so your ruck sits on your hips and you can cinch down the waist strap without a bunch or hardware getting on the way. You don’t need a cobra buckle and forged hardware. A belt like this Raine Tactical is just fine. Simple, lightweight, small hardware, and serviceable. You need to bring two.
Your T-SHIRTS, Short Sleeve, Sterile tan or OCP brown, must be 100% cotton only, no cotton/polyester mixes should be similarly simple. Just plain old cotton tees. No compression and no mixed fibers. I would probably bring 7-10. You can double wear shirts without too much hygiene concern but they’re easy to handwash. Don’t bring tight ones but don’t wear baggy stuff. Loose fitting and cotton. Move on.
Oh boy, here we go. BOOT SOCKS, military colors only, no sock liners, no GORE-TEX, no waterproof socks, no toe socks. Again, here is another opportunity to encourage you to not get too cute with your interpretation of the athletic socks. No toe socks, of any flavor. If you want toe socks for training, then get the Injinji. I don’t know if they are the original toe socks, but they are the ones that I’ve known about the longest and the ones that I recommend. The other name brands tend to be too thick in the toes, and it feels like toes spreaders and the off-brand ones seem to get the seams wrong and you end up with gathered fabric in the webs of your toes.
Manifesto Moment - But boot socks remain one of those tribal things that guys get oddly defensive about. Once they pick their brand, they remain extremely brand loyal and they believe, with all of their heart, that a differing opinion is heresy. I used to be the same way. First, when I went through SFAS in the 1900s (1997 to be exact, but it sounds funnier to say 1900s) you were only authorized to have the issued Sock, Wool, Cushion Heel and Toe, OD Green. Guys today don’t appreciate the struggle. Issued stuff back then was shit. Very low quality and only on the very rare blood moon would you get a decent bit of gear like the woobie. The issued socks were horrible. Low quality wool, poor manufacturing standards, and inconsistent fit. You name it and we struggled with those socks. It was right about that time that they introduced a black version and that was earth shattering. Of course we had access to civilian upgrades, but they weren’t allowed at SFAS. But having those black versions being an issued item, there was a brief window of opportunity where you could get Cadre to agree with some non-standard socks. I had some super thick poly-pro socks that I was issued, and I still recall how relieved I was when the Cadre said they were good to go during our shakedown. They were considered “cold-weather” and were authorized. But I would have killed to have the sort of access and authorization that Candidates today enjoy.
I loved Thorlo. I was gifted a whole stack of Thorlos from a sales rep at a conference I attended, and I was sold. But, in the jungle I only wore a very specific brand of Fox River liners. So, for years, I was just a very specific Thorlo Medium Weight Crew Hiker and a Fox River liner guy. That’s it. Never together, but only those two. So, I understand the tribalism. But the SFAS Packing list is very forgiving for socks and the sock market is anything but limited. So, the sky really is the limit. I’ve spent a small fortune testing every sock that I could get my hands on in the past year and the difference between my number one pick and my number fifty pick is about .02 points out of 100. It really depends on user preference and how that sock interacts with your specific boot and your specific insole. But here are my picks:
Ruck Sox - Don’t argue with me, just accept that these are great socks. Made in the USA (right down the road from Fort Bragg), veteran owned, and just perfect. My number one pick, but they don’t make an over the calf compression version, so if that’s your thing then look elsewhere.
icebreaker Men's Merino Blend Run+ Ultralight Crew - They’re Canadian, but they’re still good.
Thorlos LTH Light Hiking Thick Padded Crew Sock - These are not wool, but they are so good that you won’t ever notice. Long live science.
Darn Tough Tactical Over The Calf Light Cushion Sock - It’s between these light cushion and the Extra Cushion version but I think I prefer the light cushion.
Fox River Fatigue Fighter Medium-Weight Work Over-The-Calf Socks - There is some real merit in an over the calf sock to help compress the calf.
HYDRATION SYSTEM Camelback 70-100oz (Carrier will not have clips or carabiners attached)
Just bring your issued one, make sure its 100 ounces, and make sure there are no carabiners or grimlocs, or other odd buckles. Or just bring this one, it meets all of the requirements. It sounds silly, but I’ve seen guys get hemmed up for inconsequential little plastic carabiners that were clearly part of a hydration bladder and provided zero advantages. You might note that there is a trend developing…whenever a rule, an item, or a situation can be interpreted in multiple ways, the way that is shall be interpreted is that it will always to the disadvantage of the Candidate. This is why you need to think carefully about the gear that you bring so as protect yourself against malevolent interpretation.
HEADLAMP, Red/white lens capable (Must require AA / AAA batteries)
I’ve been around the world and back again on my journey to find the perfect headlamp. Its exhausting…and expensive! You want power, compact design, good UX, comfort. The way the battery compartments works, the strap configuration and adjustability, and the color/lens combos all matter. And it has to be capable of red-light default on mode. This means that when you turn it on, it turns on with the red light, you shouldn’t have to cycle through different colors or different modes (has anyone actually ever used the strobe mode?). Having a while light accidental/negligent discharge should be viewed like a live-fire weapons discharge, in my opinion. My Team Sergeant certainly viewed this way. So if you can choose a headlamp that helps guard against this, then you should.
My conclusion is that the BLACK DIAMOND Spot 400 Headlamp is the best. It meets all of the criteria a laid out, it takes a real beating, and its relatively inexpensive.
Batteries
I’m a bit of a hardliner on batteries. They’re expensive and I have a pathological hatred for cheap batteries. I also have a pathological hatred for not having enough batteries. That’s an easy burden to shoulder on an ODA where you always have somebody else buying and stocking up on batteries. You can replace them in your devices before they run out because it’s not your money. Then you retire and you start to realize how damned expensive good batteries are. You can buy the big chub pack of generic batteries and have a nice supply, but then you start to notice that they last about half as long. So, you go down the rechargeable battery rabbit hole. I’ll save you the journey – they’re not as good and they require a fundamental shift in how you think about power management. So tread carefully. And you can’t have rechargeable batteries at SFAS. BATTERIES, AA and/or AAA for headlamp as needed, all Candidates will bring 4 AA for Land Nav. The best batteries for high output electronic devices are lithium batteries. Alkaline batteries are fine for low output devices, but that’s not what we want. We want lithium and the best lithium batteries are Energizer. Shelf life, power output, build quality. Just get the Energizers.
Manifesto Moment - I also want to encourage proper battery storage. I’ve seen these at SFAS, but I also understand if they were considered contraband. So don’t be surprised if you can’t use them. When you leave SFAS you should use these exclusively. Storing and especially packing loose batteries in your kit is an invitation for disaster. You simply don’t do it. Store them properly because they likely power lifesaving, or life taking, equipment. I keep my batteries in these little caddies. The slimline enclosed cases are nice as well, but you have to monitor the closed cases to make sure they don’t retain moisture. The advantage of the cradles is they don’t retain moisture; the disadvantage is that they don’t keep any moisture out. I have these caddies stashed all over the place. Essentially, every place that I maintain a battery powered device (night stand, gun safe, mud room, car, ruck, plate carrier) I also have a battery caddy.
Pens
Manifesto Moment - There are two philosophies when it comes to PENS, as needed. One philosophy is that pens are disposable items. Just get good enough at a cheap price so you don’t fret too much when you inevitably lose it. This usually means that it’s not super high quality though, and we are talking about some specific operating conditions at SFAS. Wet, dirty, with hot and cold extremes. So sometimes good enough isn’t good enough. The other philosophy is to get a super high quality “writing instrument”. And if you think I’m a pedantic gear fanatic, you should spend a few minutes in the Estilophile world. Those nerds are really into pens. And they will defend their pen choices with the same vigor that our community defends their sock choices.
I tend to fall somewhere in the middle. I want high quality and a decent price, but I’m willing to pay a little bit more because I know I have a unique use case scenario to operate in. And while pens (and pencils) are expendable items, they’re not disposable. I hate losing gear, so the thought of treating an item as disposable is spiritually painful for me. So cheap pens just won’t cut it. My favorite pens are Lamy brand. The best pen is the Lamy Safari fountain pen. This is an elegant, but utilitarian pen that makes everything I write with it 10% smarter than it otherwise would because it’s a fountain pen. But, and this is a big but, it’s a fountain pen with a nib and ink cartridge, so it’s also 100% more of a pain in the ass to manage. It is my favorite pen, but I would never take one to the field or SFAS. My favorite non-fountain pen is also a Lamy, a Safari ballpoint. It is infinitely more practical and its available in multiple colors. The hi-vis yellow is less than twenty bucks. This would be my EDC choice, but not for SFAS.
For SFAS I would choose a pressurized cartridge, with a texturized grip, and some element of weather protection. I would also choose something in a bright colored case, called the barrel on a pen. I will never understand why a pen has to be “tactical”. I struggle to envision a scenario where a brightly colored pen barrel compromises your position from enemy observation. Yes, some sniper in a hide position drawing a sketch is possible, but is it a primary concern? Does it realistically outweigh the very real and frequent possibility of you dropping your pen and not being able to easily see it? So, I’ve always been drawn to hi-vis orange for what I call “critical trinkets”. Little bits of kit that are important, like pens, but are easily dropped or misplaced, like pens. Hi-vis orange is my go-to.
For all of these criteria I think the Rite in the Rain Clicker Pen is the way to go. They’re not cheap, coming in around 14 bucks a pop, but I think they’re worth it. When you absolutely have to have a pen that will work under virtually any condition, this is my go-to. They meet all the criteria, and they just work. Please don’t get the Bolt-Action version. It’s the same pen, but with the added feature of a bolt action clicker. In my 55 years on this planet I don’t think I’ve ever broken the clicker function on a pen. Any pen. Stop gilding the lily. I might throw in a pack or two of these Rite in the Rain All-Weather EDC Pocket Pen from Pokka. These Pokka pens are awesome. I stumbled on to these years ago when they were just starting (I think I was a kickstarter investor?) and they’ve been a mainstay for me ever since. This version has the pressurized cartridge, and they’re about 8 bucks a pop. You can get the original Pokka, in a multipack with clips, for about 5 bucks each. They aren’t advertised as pressurized cartridge, but I’ve not had any issues. I think that a few of the full-size clicker pens and a handful of the Pokkas will set you up perfectly.
When it comes to PENCILS, as needed, you might be tempted to just complete your Rite in the Rain set and get the matching mechanical pencils. This would be a mistake. They are well made, and they meet the color criteria, so they appear to be the right choice. But they only come in .7 mm lead size. This is simply too fat for our purposes. .7 mm is fine for most writing applications, but we will be using our pencils primarily for land navigation and marking our maps. For this, we need something a little finer. Standard lead size for mechanical pencils is .7, .5, and .3 mm. As we’ve established, .7 is too fat. .3 is simply too fine and on the third night of land nav with limited sleep, .3 is accepting too much risk. .5 is the sweet spot, so stick with .5 mm.
So, what we’re looking for is a durable, hi-vis barrel, .5mm lead mechanical pencil. We like three at various price points. The Uni Kurutoga comes in at about $8, the Tombow is about $6, and the Pentel P205-F come in around $12. They are all excellent choices, and they all write essentially the same. If you had to pick one, I would pick the Pentel because it has storage for extra lead in the barrel. You should also get a pack of refills, we like the Pentel super hi-polymer lead refill, but on board storage is just a good idea. We used to recommend the Paper Mate SharpWriter mechanical pencil, but they’re tough to find in .5mm. If you can find them, they’re a great deal at about 40 cents a pencil. Now, the $12 that you might spend on our recommended Pentel P205 seems outrageous when you could just get a 40-cent pencil that does the same thing. But this really is a nice pencil. It’s robust and rugged, but it’s very refined. It writes super smoothly, the clicker always works, the clip is strong, the lead is on-board, the textured knurling is really well-done, and the color…the color is elite. That blaze orange is impossible to miss. It just catches your eye and once you are keyed into it you simply don’t lose the orange stuff. I know it’s a small thing, but these small things add up. This is the official TFVooDoo pencil for a reason. Fully endorsed. Twelve dollars well spent.
Get maybe a half dozen pens and a dozen pencils. Keep a couple with your notebook and the extras, all strapped and stored together, for quick resupply. For your notebook, NOTEBOOK (Not larger than 4"x6") Sterile upon arrival, will be thrown away at the end of course, there is only one choice – the Rite in the Rain. There is simply no other notebook that you should consider, including the off-brand versions. Weve tested several from different sources, and the consistency simply isn’t there. You’ll save yourself very little monetarily and you might end up with a really crappy knock-off. We like this spiral top one because it mates well with the cover…and it comes in blaze orange. The edge spiral bound version is also very good, but it’s just a hair too large (4.6 x 7 inches) and doesn’t nestle well in the standard cover. You can get the cover and notebook as a kit, but you have limited colors. So we prefer the blaze orange spiral top notebook and the separate black cover. Some pen/pencil storage slots and a little extra space for odds and ends. We recommend sewing on a little 550 cord loop so that you can dummy cord this. That’s it. No extra thought to put into this one.
RAZOR, Shaving non-electric and RAZOR, Blades, not much too this one. Just bring whatever razor you normally use. You’ll likely shave every day, although some guys report limited shaving during the field portion of the Land Nav Week. But others report that they had to shave, and got inspected, every single day. So, bring your razor and a couple of sets of spare blades. I prefer a safety razor, and I like this Merkur double edged, short handled, safety razor. It just feels substantial and once you learn proper technique you can’t get a closer shave. Learn to shave in the shower, with a proper crème, and you’ll elevate your game. I use a luxury brand, Officine Universelle Buly that I can only find overseas (which sounds incredibly pretentious…and I don’t care), but this Proraso is really nice too. But I only go through about a single tube a year. At any rate, two points here. Bring whatever razor you normally use and when you get the chance to start shaving properly with a single blade, like the Merkur, and in the shower you should do so.
I would say, similar to my razor recommendation, to just bring whatever SHAVING CREAM you usually use. But most of you probably use some 5-in-1 atrocity of a shaving foam, face wash, floor polish, body wash, and carpet shampoo. A standard can of foam is fine, but space it a premium so a big can isn’t a good idea. And if you’re already getting a special small can of stuff then you might as well get some good stuff, like I outlined above, It doesn’t have to be some luxury brand, but you would struggle to find better const-to-benefit upgrades than stuff like hygiene items. Just a few extra bucks for a product that you use virtually every single day can have a significant impact, particularly when you stack them up on top each other. A nicer razor and shave crème makes the daily grind of scraping your face a little better. A little more enjoyable. A little more elite.
The same can be said for toothpaste and a toothbrush (TOOTHBRUSH, and TOOTHPASTE (Large Tube)). Go ahead and use the standard stuff, Crest toothpaste and an Oral-B brush. You can even upgrade to a travel set. They work just fine. But if you spend a little time researching oral care you might go for a hydroxyapatite toothpaste and a Curaprox ultra-soft bristle brush. You could even go “tactical” and get a super elite black Curaprox toothbrush. So bring whatever toothpaste and toothbrush you normally use, but think about upgrading what you normally use to a better version. The cost is nominal, but you use this stuff every single day, so why not treat yo’self?
SEWING KIT military issue…oh boy…now we’ve stepped into some deep shit…sewing kits. This whole section is a Manifesto Moment, but it might be the thing that best summarizes why we get to enjoy might neurodivergent deep dives on gear. It’s my villain origin story. I have this incredibly odd obsession with sewing kits. I can tell you exactly where it started. Ranger school. That’s right, Ranger school. I remember the exact moment. In the barracks on the first night after you’ve been issued all of your gear you have to sew nametapes and luminous cat-eyes onto your patrol caps and gear. It’s a minor little thing. Maybe 15 or 20 minutes of work. But you’re under the gun. You’ve got 1,000 other things to get done and there is the constant threat of a proper smoking. It’s relentless, because it’s Ranger school. I recall in the midst of all of the chaos how frustrated I was that I had to thread my needles with this crappy fuzzy cotton thread with frayed ends from those cheap sewing kit scissors. Then weeks later when I dipped into my “issued” sewing kit to make a field expedient repair for a blown-out crotch, I had to deal with a useless wad of thread that had become useless because the cheap cardboard spool that it was stored on had “melted” from getting wet.
It was so incredibly frustrating because I knew that it was such a simple thing. So easy to fix, so inexpensive, and with a tiny investment in time and thought I could have a sewing kit that would actually work, every time, when I needed it to work. No compromises. So, I did that. I built my own sewing kit. I spent about 10 minutes and 20 bucks at the craft store and I got everything I needed. Then I spent about 30 minutes staging my kit that it was set up properly. I solved it. The perfect kit. No more frustration. Then, in the Q course I had a rucksack fail on me. No big deal, I had my trusty sewing kit, right? Except I hadn’t thought about the differences in sewing clothing and sewing gear. It’s a minor difference; slightly bigger needle, stronger thread, and maybe a thimble. 3 dollars’ worth of standard sewing stuff and it would have given me the ability to sustain myself indefinitely. Again, such a simple fix with a huge return on investment. If you’ve never had to make a repair or sew anything then this stuff means virtually nothing to you. The “standard issue” sewing kit just fine. It’s 15 bucks of check-the-block. But since my learning moments in Ranger school and the Q Course, I have spent no small amount of time in the field. I have had to repair gear under duress. I’ve had to rely on my sewing skills more than I care to remember. So I’ve spent some effort refining sewing kits so that they do exactly what I need them to do.
So, that’s a long way of acknowledging that I’m definitely super weird about sewing kits. Irrationally weird. I get it. But you get to benefit from that weirdness. You get to weaponize my autism without having to be autistic. And let me be clear, you can just get the 15 buck “military issue” kit and more than likely that will serve you just fine. Until it doesn’t. So, let’s start with the “issued” kit that’s $14. This zippered pouch is actually a good one to start with. It’s just the right size and because it looks like a standard kit, nobody will question what you have inside. But I would replace the crappy scissors with these scissors from the Fiskars sewing kit (and look at what color they are!!!). The rest of the kit sucks, but these scissors are elite in comparison to the standard issue ones. That’s just 5 bucks and you can reuse the little case for a project later. Throw away the thread and needles. Replace the thread with this Dyneema 130-pound test stuff from CountyComm (a great store to pick up all sorts of good bits) or some heavy duty nylon thread. The Dyneema dispenser is likely too big for most kits, so you should spool it up on these little plastic bobbins meant for sewing machines. You should get some denim needles (slightly heavier duty) or you might just invest in a bigger kit of upholstery needles that you can also use for your gear repair kit (which we’ll cover next). You should store them in one of these plastic tubes. Just buy the lot of them and you can cut them down to size and use them for storing all kinds of little bits.
That’s your sewing kit sorted. You’re welcome. But you know we’re not done. That’s your sewing kit for SFAS and beyond sorted, but we’ve got a lifetime of Commando living to account for. We’ve weeks on end in the field. Living in our gear. Relying on our kit. Forward deployed, austere, maybe even clandestine. So, we need the ability to repair kit on demand. So we pulled together a more robust “sewing kit” that we call the Field Repair Kit. You should probably have something like this in every squad, or at the platoon level at the very least. Something to repair a torn ruck, or a blown out spare barrel bag, or a field expedient stretcher. We have heavy duty thread, both the 130-pound test Dyneema and heavy-duty nylon thread, heavy duty needles, some application specific tapes, some wire, some 550 paracord, some zipties, and maybe some other bits and bobbins. We also include some repair buckles and keepers. You absolutely do not need this for SFAS (it’s not even authorized), but we should cover it just for posterity. You might be tempted to use a Speed Awl, and that’s not a bad piece of kit. But it’s bulky and you can get 95% of the same functionality with a heavy-duty needle and a thimble. I have a titanium thimble and its complete overkill, but it’s cool and that’s Rule #1.
Because of my weird obsession, I actually have three sewing kits. A personal one as described so you can build your own that I recommend that you replicate for SFAS, the Field Repair Kit that I outlined above, and my lab kit that includes an actual sewing machine, a rivet gun, a grommet stamp, and some other low density specialty equipment. I keep a stock of webbing, tubular nylon, hardware, zippers, and fabrics so I can build and prototype equipment at a fairly robust level. I call it the lab kit because my workshop is my laboratory where I chase rabbits down deep holes to satisfy my curiosity. You probably won’t get to this level (or need to), but if you’re in the game long enough you’ll find it a helpful and very useful tool kit.
There used to be some gaming of the shower shoes – SHOES, Shower (any color, flip-flops only, no heel straps). There was a time when Cadre would allow Candidates to wear sandals during downtime (whatever limited downtime there is). This was nice because you could let your feet air out a bit and get a little bit of relief to your beleaguered little hooves. But that led to guys bringing more and more elaborate sandals including Teva’s and Chaco’s. This is beyond the spirit of the law and thus the packing list was adjusted to include no heel straps and an adjustment in expectations that the shower shoes are only to be worn in the shower. So we recommend just getting some cheap near-disposable shower shoes like these. Frankly, if you can get some 99 cent cheap ones then you’re well served. These should be considered disposable. When you leave Camp Mackall, dispose of them. The showers are nasty. Your feet are nasty. Leave that funk out there.
SHOWER SOAP and SHAMPOO (Large Bottle).
You won’t take a ton of showers during SFAS. You’ll get regular access during in-processing and out-processing, and Gate Week is pretty consistent. But Land Nav week is considered field time and Team Week is wildly inconsistent. So your regular shower soap is not likely to be well used. You might consider a product that is specifically anti-bacterial (even though the evidence suggests that most of the “anti” whatever capability of these products is essentially making your skin so slippery that all of the funk actually slips off) and something that is less irritating if left unrinsed, as your likelihood of a whore bath is high.
We like Sea to Summit Wilderness Wash Liquid Camp Soap and Uncle Todd's Wild Wash Biodegradable Soap. The Sea to Summit is scent free and the Uncle Todds is lightly fragrant, but both are gentle, biodegradable, and rinse off well even in cold water like a whore bath. Some people like the Dr. Bronner's Pure-Castile Magic Liquid Soap but we find that it rinses less well than we’d like, but the baby version is pretty good (Dr. Bronner's Pure-Castile Magic Liquid Soap (Baby Unscented)). Whatever soap you do end up bringing, make sure that you’ve used it before. Use it, use it for a good bit, and use it under less-than-ideal conditions (cool or even cold water) so you know how you will respond. You don’t want Selection to be the time that figure out that your soap makes you break out in a rash. You’ll be struggling enough without introducing obstacles unnecessarily.
TOWELS, Large (military/subdued color) - If you hate yourself, you’ll just go to Military Clothing Sales (please notice that its Clothing Sales NOT Clothing AND Sales. There is no and there…) and get those cheap ass towels. They are horrible. They have zero absorption and yet somehow retaining enough water indefinitely to immediately stink like mildew. We recommend a microfiber towel. They are a quarter of the bulk of the traditional towel and they work. High absorption, quick to dry, small to pack. What would you choose anything else. We like the McNett Brand, of which Gear Aid is a subsidiary. McNett is a great brand with tons of really good field gear. If you’re not familiar with them, you should become so. High quality, purpose built, tactically minded gear. I’ve never been disappointed with a McNett product.
Some people don’t like the feeling of a microfiber towel. It can feel like you’re using a chamois cloth to dry your car and that’s essentially what they are. The traditional microfiber towel is likely what you’re thinking of (McNett Tactical PT Pod Microfiber Towel). It also packs the smallest (it is smaller at 20 x 32), so it’s a trade-off. If the microfiber feeling is too much, they also make a terry cloth version that is very good. The Quick Dry and Compact Micro-Terry Towel is larger at 30 x 50 and feels much like a traditional terry cloth towel, but thinner. But because of its construction it has similar absorption characteristics of the other microfiber towels. It’s a good little compromise in that it’s still smaller than a traditional towel, it performs like a microfiber towel, and it feels pretty normal. Bring two towels, maybe one of each.
This next one is another no brainer. SOAP, Laundry Liquid (Small/Medium Bottle, No Powder/Pods). You should bring Woolite, the Woolite Delicates Hypoallergenic Liquid Laundry Detergent specifically. Woolite is a gentle detergent that doesn’t damage your clothes as much as a regular harsher detergent, and the delicate version is even better. This is not what I would use for deeply soiled or oily clothes, but this is exactly what you want for regular laundry, especially at SFAS when you might have to hand wash or cold water wash your clothes. It is far easier to rinse out so you reduce your chance of irritants and it’s not super fragrant, so you won’t smell like a French hooker.
WRISTWATCH (No GPS, altimeter, pedometer, compass or internet capability. May not have any more functions than regular time, world time, alarm, timer and stop watch). Watches continue to be a hot button topic. It seems to be either feast or famine. Lots of younger guys don’t wear watches and rely on their phones for timekeeping. So, they often have zero thoughts on watches. Famine. This is pedestrian in my opinion, and not an option for SFAS. Other guys obsess over watches and hyper fixate on the tiniest of details. Feast, but they are equally as annoying as the famine crowd. When I was fully operational, I started with a standard G-Shock DW6900-1V and I beat the hell out of that thing. It still serves, now with my son. I later transitioned to a Nike Oregon smart-ish watch that isn’t manufactured anymore, and I ended up with my trusty Suunto X-Lander Aluminum. I now wear a Seiko Marinemaster Tuna Can in stainless. But that’s not SFAS.
For SFAS, they give you some very specific criteria (No GPS, altimeter, pedometer, compass or internet capability. May not have any more functions than regular time, world time, alarm, timer and stop watch). So that narrows down potential recommendations. We would amplify this guidance with a vibrating alarm and a good backlight. So that gives us a strong analytical framework to work from.
Everything that you do at SFAS is timed. Some timed events will happen without a watch, but most events require you to be a good time manager. A good time manager needs a good watch. Because so many guys don’t regularly wear a watch, they have questions about which is best for SFAS.
So, I’ll recommend 3 watches. The first is a super affordable option, the Casio W735H. It’s not technically a G-Shock, but it’s pretty rugged. If you’re looking for an affordable option to fill-in for your tactical wrist computer, then this a great choice. I regularly goes on sale for less than $40. If you want the confidence of a G-Shock, then the Casio GD350-1B is a solid choice. The world clock is cool for deployment, and it has all of the features I described above. It’s sells for around $100.
Some guys just don’t like the G-Shock styling, so I’ll offer up this Timex Expedition. It looks a little more like a smartwatch (but none of the unauthorized features) and is still shock rated. It features a countdown timer but does not vibrate.
So, get a watch (get two) and start using it during your prep so you can have the functionality all figured out before you get to Mackall.
LAUNDRY BAG, Army Issue (Green or black from clothing and sales) Just make sure that you write your name on it with permanent marker. It’s too easy to cut off a nametape. Write your name on all of your gear while you’re at it. Keep honest people honest.
DEODORANT
The list says deodorant, but I would suggest deodorant/anti-perspirant. If your feet start really falling apart, you can use this to keep your feet drier. Plus, nobody wants to smell your BO. I’ve seen guys take a hit on peer evals for having stank breath, so it stands to reason that nasty BO might have an impact too. You don’t need to smell like a French hooker, but it’s just common courtesy to remain inoffensive.
HYGIENE KIT BAG, SMALL Notice the comma Small part here. I’ve seen guys unfurl these massive mobile surgery panels that rival field hospitals. First, they will likely make you dump the entire thing out during shakedown. Second, you have to haul that thing around with you. Third, you don’t look cool. Also, leave your aged buffalo leather swanky dopp kit at home. You’re not going on safari, you’re going to Selection. This TNF Base Camp Voyager Dopp Kit is bombproof, just the right size, and will serve you for decades. Buy once, cry once. You might also consider this Columbia Landroamer Dopp Kit. It’s essentially the same thing except as the TNF one except all of the internal dividers are mesh.
MONEY, Cash (At least $75, but no more than $100)
Give all of those glittery singles back to your girlfriend. She knows what to do with them. Grab 4 x $20 and 2 x $10 dollar bills. Not too many to carry, but small enough to not require excessive change.
AUTHORIZED TA-50 ITEMS
Bring it all. Make sure it’s in perfect working condition. Manke certain that it’s not obviously modified.
JACKET, COLD WEATHER (FLEECE) 1 EA
WET WEATHER TOP AND BOTTOM, COLD WEATHER WATER PROOF (NON-GORTEX or GORTEX) 1 EA
GLOVES, LEATHER (WHITE, TAN, OR BLACK ONLY) 1 EA
CARRIER, FIGHTING LOAD (FLC) OR TAPS SYSTEMS 1 EA
POUCH, CANTEEN 1 QT 2 EA
PACK, FRAME MOLLE (COMPONENT OF MOLLE RUCK) 1 EA
BELT, MOLDED WAIST (COMPONENT OF MOLLE RUCK) 1 EA
SHOULDER STRAPS (COMPONENT OF MOLLE RUCK) 1 EA
PACK, PATROL LARGE (COMPONENT OF MOLLE RUCK) 1 EA
LOAD LIFTER ATTACHMENT STRAPS (COMPONENT OF MOLLE RUCK) 2 EA
BAG, CLOTHING WATERPROOF, (GREEN ARMY ISSUED WITH BLACK INSIDE) 2 EA
LINER, WET WEATHER PONCHO 1 EA
MAT, SLEEPING 1 EA
PONCHO, WET WEATHER 1 EA
CANTEENS, 2 QT 2 EA
CANTEENS, 1 QT 2 EA
COVER, 2 QT CANTEEN 2 EA
CANTEEN CUP 1 EA
ENTRENCHING TOOL AND COVER 1 EA
STUFF SACK, SMALL *SEE NOTE 4 1 EA
SLEEPING BAG (SUMMER, WINTER, BIVY COVER, ALL ARE MANDATORY FOR ALL CLASSES) *SEE NOTE 4 1 EA
STUFF SACK, LARGE *SEE NOTE 4 1 EA
Optional Authorized Items
Alcohol Markers, as needed
There is only one option here. Staedtler, fine or superfine. You only really need black, but there are some marking advantage with the other colors for land nav and maybe for note taking. What I would do is buy a 10-pack of the black ones. Then I’d buy two 4-packs of colored ones. Then I’d use one of the 4 packs hard cases for my “ready-rack” black markers. This may surprise you, but I have thoughts on pens, pencils, and markers. I think people who are careless and nonchalant about where they store their writing implements are terrorists and should treated a such. When I see someone aimlessly looking around for something to wrote with, I can immediately dismiss them as a dotard. Why are you struggling with this task? Why are beating yourself on a technicality? You bought them, then brought them, and now you hid them…on yourself. These are the same people are always losing their keys or can’t find their phone.
So, you should keep a pen and pencil with your notebook, you should keep a marker with your map case, and you should keep a stash of markers in your ruck. I keep mine in the claymore pouch. Always. Every time. No negotiation. What is the claymore pouch? It doesn’t matter. You don’t need to know where I keep my pens, you need to know where you keep your pens. So pick a pouch, any pouch, but make certain that this is only pouch where you ever put them. Always. Every time. You never have to waste time searching for them. You know where they are because you only put them in one place.
This is not the place to save a few pennies. The Staedtlers will run you $2.50 a pen. The cheaper off-brand version will run you $2.00 a pen. If you want to gamble on your chances of losing your marks, getting lost, or even just inconvenienced all because you wanted to save 50 cents then be my guest. Just like hiding your markers in random places, you are only beating yourself. It’s an unforced error.
Alcohol Eraser, as needed
The Staedtler eraser is a good option. For as adamant as I am about the Staedtler markers I am equally ambivalent about the eraser. I prefer to use alcohol pads for cleaning my map, but they aren’t authorized at SFAS. 2 erasers will probably serve you well, but I should remind you that you can use the regular markers and trace over the line that you want to erase and wipe it before it dries as an expedient method.
Black Tape, friction or electrical 2 rolls
Black Tape, friction or electrical, 2 rolls
Since you are authorized 2 rolls, I recommend one roll of electrical tape and one friction tape. For electrical tape I always recommend 3M. Made in the USA and worth the extra money over the cheap chinesium crap. The materials last and more importantly the adhesive lasts. And it doesn’t leave a crap-ton of residue when removed. For those that aren’t aware, 3M has a numbering system wherein in the lower the number the higher the quality of the tape. So, the 3M 33 is better than the 88, which is better than the 175.
Since we already have a glossy finish tape with the electrical tape, I recommend a matte finish second roll. “Friction” tape is a generic term that most people think just means duct tape or 100MPH tape, but friction tape is actually its own thing. This stuff is awesome as it has a slight adhesive property or tackiness on the back side as well as the regular adhesive side, so it’s great for adding a positive handhold to stuff. I can’t imagine many uses for this performance characteristic in SFAS, but it’s good to add to your kit. I would bring a roll of the ¾ inch stuff.
Finger/toe nail clippers, 1 ea
I’ve been on a bit of a journey searching for the best nail clippers. It’s odd how many people produce a different version when it seems like something we should have solved years ago. But as soon as this gets in your algorithm, it’s not stop. So, I have a bin of less than great clippers that I’ve tested so you don’t have to. You could get by with any old 99 cent bargain bin nail clipper, so long as it’s decently sharp. But they can be inconsistent and constantly replacing cheap pairs is just a pain. In my “big kit” I have some Fox Medical heavy duty surgical steel nail clippers. These things could groom a T-rex. But they are purpose built and might be overkill for some. I found my “daily driver’ clippers with these Victorinox clippers a few years ago and I’m never going back to anything else. This is just engineering and manufacturing excellence. Treat yourself (they’re less than $20) and you’ll never have to buy another pair of nail clippers. You probably won’t be doing a bunch of nail clipping at SFAS. This isn’t the time to get aggressive or novel. Just light trimming for upkeep. Stay the course.
Foot Powder, non-aerosol 2 ea.
Manifesto Moment - I made my own foot powder. Yes, I made my own. Weaponized autism. This is what you get when you combine motivation, hyper-fixation, and entrepreneurial spirit. Those have followed me for some time know that a few years ago I discovered that Gold Bond, long considered the universal standard, switched from talc to corn starch as the main component. Talc is superior to corn starch. It is entirely inert and excels at absorption. But a few years ago, it was linked to cancer. The link is tenuous, and the risk is exceedingly low, particularly with how we use it for our application. But the result has been that talc is essentially unavailable in foot powder in the US. No major brand offers it and the only place that we could find it was in obscure Asian market heat rash powders with extraneous ingredients.
So, we went about making our own. It’s fairly easy to get your hands on some bulk talc along with the other key ingredients. We did the research and the only stuff that you really need is menthol and zinc oxide. Menthol acts as a mild skin stimulant, and it smells good. Zinc oxide is a skin protectant. So, a formula made with talc, menthol, and zinc oxide is pretty simple to put together. We made about a dozen batches of varying recipes and went about testing them out . We settled on a regular strength and an extra strength formula and started looking for manufacturing options, particularly American based. They don’t exist. The hollowing out of American manufacturing capacity is a crime. We are slowly building this capacity back, but as it stands right now, we simply can’t find a reliable American based scalable manufacturing source. It’s incredibly frustrating. And the regulations are similarly frustrating. Our litigious American society, where everyone is always looking for a pay day, has led to warnings on shampoo bottles and design for challenged toddlers. So we’re now working with some small batch artisan creators to bring this to market. The battle will no doubt include a liability warning imploring the user to not treat the mentholated foot powder like high grade Bolivian Marching Powder cocaine. In the meantime, just use the Gold Bond. Triple Action. In the blue bottle. It’s good enough.
Large Trash Bags 1 box
Not all trash bags are created equal, and you aren’t using these for trash. These are to keep your gear dry. So, you don’t care so much about flex, or drawstrings, or lilac scent. You need them to be strong, and you need them to be of a certain size. They should fit a ruck or duffel circumference neatly. They also need to be tall enough, so they have plenty of ‘neck’ to tie them shut. These 55-gallon, 6.0 mil, contractor bags are perfect. Thick, tall, and strong; insert your own joke here. They are pricey, as far as trash bags go, but you’re not buying trash bags. You’re buying waterproof bags.
Lip Balm, as needed
Even if you’re not a regular ChapStick wearer, I strongly recommend bringing some. You’re going to be putting your body through the ringer and it’s impossible to predict how you might respond. I’ve seen plenty of Candidates get grotesquely chapped and torn up lips and more than a few nasty sun blisters. By the time you step off for the LRM, you’re a walking petri dish of infectious diseases and depleted immune system. You don’t want to look like a castaway, and you don’t want to deal with the incessant pain. I recommend this Waxhead brand. It’s got a little zinc oxide in it so it’s a real protectant and it can double as bug bite and minor scrape relief. Its only SPF 15 (which is plenty), but you wanted more protection I would recommend this Dermatone option for SPF 30. Stash a tube in your hygiene kit, keep one in your pocket, and it’s even good to include in your sewing kit to help lubricate a sticky needle and thick cordage when you’re trying to do a difficult field repair on your kit.
Knife or Multi tool * ONLY one or the other* (folding blade 4" or less), 1 ea
Most of us carry a knife as part of our EDC (every man should wear a watch, carry a knife, and have a hanky – Check out the 2025-2026 TFVooDoo Gift Guide for more!) and you can write endlessly on this topic. I don’t want to start any needless wars when I declare the Spyderco Military as the only truly proper option for a knife, but I have been experimenting with something a little sleeker for certain occasions. This little carbon fiber folding scalpel is amazing. I swapped out a deep pocket clip for the standard one and it’s been a game changer. I’m pretty rough on my blades, so the ability to simply swap out a new blade so easily has been amazing. It’s so sleek that you don’t even notice this thing in your pocket. It’s probably not an heirloom quality piece, but it’s my new EDC.
But a knife shouldn’t be your choice for SFAS. You only get a knife OR a multi-tool, and every multi-tool has a knife (or it should) so the choice should be obvious. The choice of what multi-tool is where you get lots of options. I’m partial to the old-school SOG Paratool, because the ability to use angled pliers has saved me more than once. But if you want one you have to search for it…and pay. And it’s not a one-hand open/deploy tool. So, it’s probably not a great option for SFAS.
The best general use multi-tool is the “Gerber EOD”. What makes this tool so desirable is the utility. The replaceable RemGrit blade is awesome, the one handed deployability is nice, but the blasting cap crimper and C4 Punch are the real stars of the show. I’m surprised by how often I used these two specifically as I look back at my operational time. But at SFAS, that C4 Punch is invaluable when prying apart a troublesome knot. Those lashings can get pretty tight under load, and I’ve seen more than one team miss their hit time because they couldn’t disassemble their apparatus in time. All for the want of a multitool. But, as far as I can tell the Gerber OED isn’t available anymore. It’s been replaced with the Gerber Gear DET Multi-Plier 600 which doesn’t have the C4 Punch (or even the blasting cap crimper).
You can’t go wrong with the Leatherman Surge or the Wave, they just lack the utility and cool factor of the EOD. I also like the SOG PowerLock which has the blasting cap crimper but still lacks the C4 Punch. The blasting cap crimper is niche and not useful as SFAS, but it’s very useful as a general commando tool, so I if you can’t somehow source an original Gerber EOD the SOG is a good consolation prize. Whichever tool you choose, don’t get in the habit of wearing it in a sheath on your belt. Is it super convenient and always in arms reach? Yes. Does it get in way of your ruck hip pad and present a general nuisance? Also, yes. Does it look cool? No. So just get in the habit of storing it in your FLC or ruck. I keep mine in my ruck, collocated with my field repair kit.
Sunscreen, non-aerosol, 2 ea
The same way that SPF lip balm should be used as a preventative tool, so too should sunscreen. I recommend this Blue Lizard SPF 50. Its fragrance free, water/sweat resistant, and has some zinc oxide as a skin protectant. You’ll notice that I’ve selected several products (lip balm, foot powder, skin lotion, sunscreen) with zinc oxide in it. Your skin, especially your hands and feet, are going to take beating at SFAS. Little cuts and scrapes can cascade into serious infections and cellulitis if left to fester. The more therapeutic care that you can give yourself the better off you’ll be. If you have multiple care options across multiple products then you have more therapeutic resources available. Remember the Submariners’ Rule….
Waterproof Bags (zip lock, no larger than gallon-size), 1 box
Ziploc, non-slider, freezer bags. If you spend enough time in a maritime or jungle environment, you learn what bags work well. Get this chub pack so you can get 60 bags in a box. Better to have and not need than need and not have.
Baby Wipes: Alcohol free and without additives, as needed
Way more options that you should realistically have to sift through. There has been an explosion in baby/body wipe options with scent blockers, additives, medicated formulas, and directed marketing. If you are strictly adhering to the directions then you must have baby wipes, no alcohol, and no additives. In this case you have some limited options, it’s damn near impossible to find some with ZERO additives. I like these WaterWipes, but even these are only 99.9%. Frankly, I’ve never seen the wipes get much scrutiny. If you wanted to throw a few packs of these or these I think it would be worth it. These are both anti-fungal and anti-bacterial, so they’ll be invaluable with controlling the inevitable crud that your body will encounter. One crossing of Scuba Road will make you understand germ warfare. A few quick swipes of your feet before you powder up and throw on your socks and boots might be the thing that keeps your feet up to snuff.
Hand Sanitizer, 1 ea
I find it odd that the packing list so strictly forbids any alcohol or additives in the baby wipes and then in the very next item lists Hand Sanitizer, 1 ea, with no caveats. Most hand sanitizer uses alcohol, and many have additives. So, couldn’t I simply dump my hand sanitizer in my baby wipes and circumvent the baby wipe restrictions? It seems odd that we slice the onion so thinly on some items and then roughly dice on others. Weird. At any rate, I recommend bringing a big bottle of hand sanitizer. Keeping your hands relatively sanitized from various pathogens is helpful for obvious reasons, especially as your immune system begins to slowly circle the drain. But the better use of the hand sanitizer might be to keep your little cuts and scrapes from getting infected.
This is a little obvious when it comes to your hands, especially as you battle the draw monster during land nav. But don’t forget about your legs and particularly your feet. You are likely to get fairly scraped up on your lower legs and I’ve seen minor little scrapes around the knees cascade into debilitating cellulitis in 24 hours. One of the struggles with managing blisters on your feet is keeping them dry. The alcohol in the sanitizer can prove really helpful here. When you finish up training for the day and begin your foot care routine you should clean them (baby wipes or soap and water if possible), then sanitize (hand sanitizer), then powder, then socks. I always advocate that simple is better and I maintain that this routine is simply washing and drying, donning some socks, and giving your feet some therapeutic relief along the way. I’ve gone weeks in wet, dirty, swampy jungle environs and by simply cleaning and drying my feet every night I was able to avoid any serious ill effects, while some of my kit literally rotted away. Get this non-moisturizing 95% alcohol version. It’s the best stuff I’ve found and has virtually no sticky residue.
Insect Repellant, non-aerosol, as needed
The bugs at Camp Mackall in the late Spring or early Fall are pretty nasty. Add this to the fact that I am a certified wuss when it comes to stuff crawling or flying around my ears and my career of living in the jungle, and I get pretty enthusiastic about insect repellent. Plus, enduring a chigger infestation is just layering misery on top of misery. You want to be careful with what products that you choose because you want maximum effectiveness, but you want to avoid irritating your skin. Getting repellant in your eyes from sweat would be horrible. If you start slathering on sunscreen on top of lotion on top of repellent, you can create some pretty toxic stuff. This is very much a case of test and evaluate. Part of your prep should be finding what products work best for you, in both effectiveness and reactivity.
I recommend a deliberate approach here. The sunscreen that I recommended is great because it’s less likely to cause irritation and is non-reactive to any of the standard insect repellents. So, you can go for a potent option like this Sawyer Products SP564 Premium Insect Repellent with 20% Picaridin. It comes in both a lotion and a non-aerosol pump spray. But I would also strongly recommend a wash in treatment for your clothes as well. I’m always surprised that so many guys don’t even know these options exist. Back in the day, the Army used to have a kit that was extremely potent. If you got the treatment concentrate on certain clothes or equipment it would actually melt them. I’m certain that I’ve done irreparable damage to my central nervous system, but I enjoyed many bug-free nights in some nasty terrain. They still produce these kits (with an NSN), but they can be hard to get a hold of and I’m not certain that they’re quite as potent as the old-school stuff, even at 40% Permethrin. The Army actually produced factory treated ACUs for a few years, but I can’t find OCPs. There are some commercially available options like Sawyer Premium Spray that’s pretty good. I’ve used this on my technical gear, and it doesn’t seem to damage anything, and the repellent has been pretty effective. Whichever option that you use, I recommend treating one uniform and them wearing that for a few training sessions just to be certain that you don’t get a reaction. This stuff can be potent, so if you grow a third eye that’s on you.
Insoles, Boots (Any Type), as needed
Insoles are a secret weapon. Bad insoles with inadequate support or cushioning can quickly induce multiple injuries, from stress fractures to blisters to severe muscle soreness. Conversely, good insoles can give you amazing results and because the packing list has no restrictions here, you should take advantage of this item. Much like boots, this comes down to user preference. I rarely endorse specific insoles because they are so user unique, but guys keep hounding me for options. I really like the Superfeet Hike Flex insoles. Some guys think that these are too squishy, and I might agree, but only when they get completely saturated. If you don’t these you might try the Superfeet Hike Support, which is a carbon fiber orthotic.
I always recommend carrying multiple insoles in your ruck. They are super lightweight and take up almost no room. During SFAS Land Nav. I recommend carrying one extra pair of boots in case you have a catastrophic boot blowout and 2-3 pair of insoles. Most modern boots dry out fairly quickly, so you can recover from a water crossing quickly by just changing socks and insoles. Good insoles are game changer for both performance and foot care. You might consider a pair with high support during movement and switching to a ‘squishier’ set during recovery. I would avoid the drug store mass-market versions, especially the gel options. They rarely handle the abuse of rucking and completely fail under SFAS conditions. If you do the combat math on socks, boots, and insoles you can easily bust the $300 mark on any given day. But your feet are your foundation, and you’re not rich enough to buy cheap gear. Buy once, cry once.
Lighter, 1 ea
A regular old Bic is fine. Keep it in your sewing kit so you never lose it. I get these mini-Bics by the tray, so I never have to search for a lighter. I keep the bulk in my laboratory, but I have a lighter stashed in my survival kit, in my sewing kit, in my repair kit, and few more just for S&G. They weigh nothing and when you need one you really really need one. I also really like this Soto Butane Torch lighter. These produce a really hot flame that it superior for melting 550 cord and such. These used to be compatible with a specific disposable lighter and were super convenient. But I can’t find those specific lighters anymore and the refillable version that comes with these isn’t as good as the old disposable. It’s still a good bit of gear, but not nearly as good as it used to be.
Liner, Field Jacket, 1 ea
The venerable Smoking Jacket. Pound for pound, probably the best snivel top out there. I used to tell the War Story of an Army Research Institute study that the Smoking Jacket was the warmest, by weight, option. I searched and searched for that study, because why not, and I could never find it. Recently I stumbled across this study, which the closest that I’ve ever found but doesn’t quite make that conclusion. This study essentially concludes that the old school liner was as good or better than any number of newer prototypes. That’s good enough for me. I think the newer stuff might edge it out, but the Smoking Jacket is just good kit. And like its big brother the poncho liner, this should be in your kit. Whatever you do, DO NOT get this freak show. Talk about gilding the lily! Just be normal and bring your standard issue liner.
Map Case, 1 ea
There are no great options here. The SealLine map case used to be the standard. But several years ago, they changed their construction from polished vinyl to TPU. This move was environmentally mandated (thanks California) and it seems to have infected nearly every manufacturer. This means that the cases now stain when you use the alcohol markers on them. It’s a real betrayal of their user base. In the intervening years I have spent countless hours searching for a suitable replacement. You essentially now have two options. You can get one that is entirely waterproof, but stains, or one that is fully erasable but isn’t waterproof. I’ve been on a journey trying to develop my own that meets the waterproof, stain-proof, and USA made trifecta and its damn near impossible. It comes in three sizes. In the meantime, just get the SealLine. The small is far too small for SFAS. The medium is acceptable, but I recommend the large. It might be a touch cumbersome so you might just get both and decide which one to take to Camp Mackall. Put a loop of 550 cord to hand around your neck and attach your pace beads to it. And keep you eyes peeled for when we finally crack this manufacturing nut.
Moleskin, as needed
I always recommend against using moleskin in your prep. One of the reasons why you are prepping is to toughen up your feet. If you are consistently applying moleskin, it indicates that your feet aren’t getting conditioned, and it often indicates a boot fitment issue. During a workout, if you are experiencing so much discomfort that you require moleskin, I recommend just terminating the workout so that you can address the issue. Training your skin is just as important as training your muscles and you wouldn’t continue to train if you just injured a muscle, so why would you do it with a blister?
But for SFAS (or even regular field time) it’s a good idea to put together a little foot care kit. You could make it part of your hygiene kit, but a separate pouch is nice to keep stuff organized and help you cross-level appropriately. You might consider adding the Victorinox clippers that I recommended earlier (these things are awesome). You also might add some Fox Heavy Duty clippers for troublesome nails, and they can also double as scissors to trim your moleskin. A nail file is critical, so this surgical stainless-steel kit is nice but avoid doing too much digging and prying at your feet without some professional guidance. Add some alcohol pads (not for SFAS) to keep your tools and toes clean and then take some moleskin and pre-cut some pieces to make it easier on yourself in the field. Try both the padded, aka Molefoam, and non-padded regular stuff. They even make kits with pre-cut pieces, but I prefer to custom cut my own. Put it all in a little pouch as discussed earlier in our sewing kit discussion. You might also consider getting an assorted pack of heavy duty Ziploc bags to keep all of your stuff organized; get this set and you’ll likely have enough to stay organized for the rest of your career.
Pace Cord, 1 ea
If you don’t bring pace beads, then you aren’t serious about getting selected. Non-negotiable. If you’re really serious about getting selected, you should attend a Land Nav Muster. We’ll issue you a set of pace beads and teach you how to use them.
Q-Tips, as needed
SHOWER SOAP APLICATIOR (EX:Luffa or washcloth) as needed
Get one of these cool black ones because its “tactical” and use the extra ones in your home shower so you can have nice skin and not smell like a dead goat. Get a bottle of this Kiehl's Grapefruit Liquid Body Cleanser for your daily driver, you’ll thank me later. At SFAS you probably want an antibacterial product (most of the “antibacterial” properties of these products is simply the bacteria slipping off the soapy surface. You’re not scrubbing into a surgery.) as discussed earlier.
Skin Care Lotion, small, 1 ea
What kind of lotion? Medicated or non-medicated? Just “skin care”? What does that mean? What is small? It’s odd that some items are so restrictedly prescriptive, and adjacent items…even facsimiles…are completely unrestricted. So, I say use this to your advantage. You probably don’t care if you have ashy elbows and knees, so you can forego the cocoa butter and shea extract. Think about a dual use lotion that you can use to battle monkey butt or treat your beleaguered feet. This calls for Bag Balm. Some guys swear by Corn Huskers Lotion, but I think this is a hold-over from the ‘no petroleum/oil products’ restriction from Ranger school. For those who don’t know, there used to be a hot debate about what sort of hand lotion was authorized for Ranger school. Split fingers were common, especially in the Mountain Phase with all of the rope work. But petroleum-based products were forbidden because they would degrade the ropes. So, for years, Corn Huskers Lotion was the only authorized lotion. It’s not very good, but it held some prestige because it was on the packing list. Bag Balm is more adaptable and a better general use lotion, so it wins my vote.
You might also consider a skin care lotion with a little zinc oxide which is hard to find unless you use a facial moisturizer that boats its SPF performance. If you don’t go for the Bag Balm then we recommend the more traditional Lubriderm Advanced Therapy Fragrance Free Moisturizing Hand & Body Lotion.
Dental Retainer, 1 ea.
If you’ve got one, bring it. Nerd.
Floss, as needed
I was taught that in a survival situation that flossing your teeth is more important than brushing your teeth. There is a ton of literature that supports flossing as part of a regular dental hygiene routine as it improves gum health, overall teeth health, and helps with your stanky ass breath. I have been working to optimize all of these little things more and more recently and I now floss regularly, I have noticed that it does make my gums feel and look better and it definitely helps my breath. Don’t just bring floss to SFAS as the first few weeks of a flossing regimen can be firmly painful as your gums adapt to the irritation, but when you do get floss get some good stuff like this Davids Expanding Dental Floss + Refill w/Hydroxyapatite, Davids also makes a really nice toothpaste, but it only comes in 5% hydroxyapatite. The literature isn’t really conclusive if the 10% stuff is all that much better than the 5% stuff, but you should definitely be switching to hydroxyapatite toothpaste, and this floss just supports that move.
There is some lingering urban legend about using dental floss to sew on cat-eyes luminous patches, but this seems dumb to me as I can have incredibly strong thread that does the job better. The little dispenser is a nice storage tool, but it’s too big and again it’s just weak thread. I guess the dental floss for sewing would give you a nice minty smell, but I would just stick to dental floss for dental stuff and proper thread for sewing stuff.
Tape, 100 MPH (Tan or OD Green), 2 rolls
I wouldn’t necessarily bring a new, full roll of tape, but you definitely want to have some for general use. I would recommend half used rolls of regular and 1 inch. Stay tuned for our field repair kit articles and video as there is lots to cover. For SFAS, I recommend a half roll of this 3-inch OD Green gaffer tape or this traditional 100 MPH tape and a roll of this 1-inch OD Green gaffer tape or this more traditional 100 MPH tape.
Nylon Cord, 550-type, military or subdued colors, 100 ft
This is a standard part of your field repair kit, and you’ll need 550 for tie downs, so definitely bring a hank of cord. Pro tip: the riggers shed almost always has big bundles of 550 from decommissioned parachutes and its just as good as the brand-new roll that costs you 100 bucks. You have to do some untangling but it’s free. Ask for some tubular nylon while you’re asking. Always good to have a little extra for maintaining your gear. I get my 550 by the entire roll and I store it in my kit on these little spools.
Extra Bite Valve & Bladder for Hydration System, 1 ea
As discussed earlier. Just make sure that your bladder matches your carrier.
Bootlaces, 2 pr
Just two pairs of regular old boot laces. Stash one pair in your foot care kit and one pair in either your sewing kit or your field repair kit. Some guys will tout using 550 cord…so you have extra cordage in a survival situation! C’mon, what are you, Rambo? This falls into the same category as guys that wear those “survival bracelets”. Does anybody believe that these guys are ever in a position or live a lifestyle that might require 24 inches of 550 cord to ensure their survival? Every time I see this stuff I think of the meme…“Jesus Christ, its Jason Bourne”. Remember the 3 Rules. Just two pairs of regular old boot laces.
Book, (Bible, Ranger Handbook, or Novel * No Magazines* ), 1 ea
Bible? Good. Ranger Handbook? …“Jesus Christ, its Jason Bourne”. Novel? Sure. Pick a good one. DO NOT bring a SEAL book. I’m always shocked how many guys bring a book about SEALs…to SFAS. Really? Cadre quietly judge you. It won’t mean a thing come assessment time, but they’ll judge. The one exception I would make is my favorite novel, Without Remorse. This Tom Clancy classic gives us the origin story for the iconic Mr. Clark. Mr. Clark started his storied career in the SEAL teams of Vietnam. I’ll allow it. Now that 2021 movie adaptation? Trash. A massive, missed opportunity.
Don’t bring a copy of my books. My books contain land navigation material and that’s not allowed. I’m writing a novel now. It’s a really good story about a Green Beret who transitions into civilian life and finds himself being pulled back into government service to do less savory things. He relies on his character, virtues, and Green Beret training to lead himself along this path while freeing the oppressed. It’s inspired by many real-life friends of mine and no small amount of imagination. If you like my authentic non-fiction writing style, then you’ll love my fiction stuff. I hope to have that out in 2026, but I have no promises.
Clothes Pins, as needed
These are surprisingly useful as your access to traditional laundry facilities is limited. Nothing worse than line drying your gear and finding it lumped up and still wet on the ground. These are essentially expendable items, and you could get by with two dozen or so. You can go with these standard wooden ones, but they seem too cheap. You could upgrade to these “tactical” clothes pins for a few bucks more. I like these stainless-steel ones. Just a touch more tension and they’ll last forever. Plus, they’re useful in your gear storage to keep stuff organized and open packaged from spilling out.
Physical Therapy Item, non-electric (EX: Foam roller or rolling stick)", 1 Only
They’re just giving it away. This new generation is soft. Back in my day. Last hard class.
News Flash: You’re going to get jacked up at SFAS. Any physical therapy item that helps get you back into fighting form is good. I’ll add to this theory, and perhaps influence your choice, by adding that you should be buddy stretching and even massaging. There is nothing wrong with you helping a buddy out by giving him a rub down or working out that kink in his back. Knowing this is possible, you probably don’t need a massage hook. You can’t bring a trigger point massage gun, so I think the rolling stick is the best choice.
Safety Pins, as needed
As previously noted during my sewing kit diatribe, the best safety pins are scavenged from USGI Triangular Bandages. But you can get a kit of fairly decent ones in assorted sizes for cheap. Add some to your PC, your sewing kit, your field repair kit, or wherever you’ve got a little free real estate. I’ve seen more than one guy suffer a catastrophic crotch blowout and it’s just good practice to be able to get the cow back in the barn quickly.
Optional Items – These are listed as optional, but you would be well-advised to bring them. There is lots of room to customize here. I’ll try to cut through the noise and give you the top 2-3 options for each item and I’ll include the reasoning for them when appropriate. Otherwise, you could spend endless cash and time chasing down the endless possibilities. And many of these items really only have one best option.
Lock, Combination (NO KEY LOCKS), 3 ea
You’re just keeping honest people honest, so no need to channel your inner Lockpicking Lawyer. You want to be able to set the combo yourself, so you don’t have to remember multiple combos. These simple locks are fine, or you could ‘upgrade’ to a Master lock. But these can give you trouble squeezing the larger shackle through the hasp on the duffel bag.
Speaking of the Lockpicking Lawyer you should consider learning lockpicking as a skill. It’s a good one to have and I can’t tell you how many times I’ve used it, not just in “tactical scenarios” (insert Jason Bourne meme). Try this simple kit to get started. I also recommend learning how to gain access to cars and this kit that I keep in my trunk get used way more often than you might imagine. Learn to be useful to yourself and others.
Anti-Chafe, (Body Glide or Vasoline), 2 ea
More monkey butt maintenance. Anti-Monkey Butt makes a good product. I like this one just for the name…no idea how well it works but give it some style points. Regular old Vaseline is fine, but it sometimes pills. Whatever you do, do not bring Astroglide. It happens on the regular. I don’t care how well it works for you. This is definitely a case of if it’s stupid, but it works, then it’s not stupid being the exception that proves the rule. The last time I saw a Candidate with a tube of Astroglide he also had a purple crushed velvet pillow and sheet set. I shit you not. He did not make it.
High Lighters, as needed
I don’t use highlighters as part of my land nav process. I see some merit in using them, but little of it transfers to the tactical world so it’s just not something I consider much. When it comes to orders production and tactic and what not I could definitely see some merit. These Sharpie highlighters are a good choice if you’re in the market for highlighters.
Bungee Cords, (Tactical colors only), as needed
Yep, I have some thoughts on bungee cords. Being able to set and break camp without drama is a recipe for good living. Bungee cords allow you to do this. A regular poncho is shit, but it’s what you have for SFAS. As soon as possible you should upgrade to something like this low-cost option or this higher end SnugPAk Stasha or the SnugPak G2. SnugPak also makes the superior version of the poncho liner. The Jungle Blanket is a staple of my kit and I have several stashed in my vehicles as well. I love my woobie, but the Jungle Blanket is just better. You should have a couple of bungees wrapped around your ruck frame (they’re handy for securing loose kit that invariably ends up lashed on. And you should have some bungees in your shelter/poncho kit. I like longer ones because I can always shorten them but Rocket Straps gives you adjustable options and multiple lengths so you can customize your kit. Just stay away from the carabiner versions for SFAS. These X-Strap ones are good quality, but the bigger hooks can be cumbersome when laced around your ruck frame. Nothing wrong with the standard plain old bungees. If you wanted to make them “high-speed” you could use some shrink tube on the hooks.
2 Quart, Canteen Straws, as needed
You definitely want to bring 2 quart canteen straws. You might as well bring 4. Two for your mounted canteens and a couple extra for when the Draw Monster confiscates them. We like these ones.
Scrub Brush to clean TA-50, 1 ea (they finally fixed the spelling! IYKYK)
...my care of equipment shall set the example for others to follow…I remember that from somewhere…
This little palm brush is the perfect size to toss in your kit, and it’s stiff. You will need that to knock off dried on muck and dirt and to dig grit out of seams. You’ll want to buff your boots every day to keep the sand from wearing deep into seams and joints and wearing a hole prematurely.
Tent Stakes, Camping, spray painted black only, all others are unauthorized, as needed
Steel or aluminum, these two sets are already black, so they save you a step. The aluminum ones come in a cool reflective bag that might prove useful. You might consider a stuff sack (this four pack is a great deal) for your poncho/tarp, bungee, a hank of 550 cord, and your stakes. Makes it easy to set and break camp. Use a sack for your woobie, one for your snivel, keep your stuff organized so you don’t have to do a layout every time you need to grab something from your ruck. There you go, we buried a great piece of advice under the Tent Stakes section.
Bed sheets / Pillow, NO CIVILIAN SLEEPING BAGS, 1 set
Get a set of these Friendly Swede travel sheets; get the XL polyester ones. They can double as a sleep sack in warmer weather, and they won’t violate the NO CIVILIAN SLEEPING BAG mandate. Especially if you write Travel Sheets on the little bag. Bring a pillow. Sleep is critical and the more comfortable you can get the better. If you need a ‘traditional’ pillow, then go for this Therm-a-Rest Compressible Pillow. If you can tolerate an inflatable pillow, then this Sea to Summit Aeros is the best one out there and is super lightweight.
Ranger Shorts - military/subdued colors, no logos, as needed
Manifesto Moment - I stand by my incomprehensibly controversial statement that Ranger Panties do not make good underwear. I’ve been screeched at by guys with less time in the Army than I have in Ranger school, like Ranger Panties weren’t available in the ‘olden times’ that I served. The glory of youthful certainty… But you should still bring a few pair for ‘loungewear’. No that you have much opportunity for lounging, but these shorts are superior the PT uniform basketball-short-knicker-shants atrocities. If you get the chance, you should make the pilgrimage to the Soffe factory at Bragg. Light a memorial candle, say a prayer, and get some killer deals on all of the Soffe gear at the factory store. It’s one of the steps to Green Beret Enlightenment.
Facemask / Balaclava, Army Issue, 1 ea
I’ve lived at Fort Bragg for 25+ years, and I don’t recall it ever getting cold enough to require a facemask or balaclava. So, I would default towards a dual-purpose item. I like this generic lightweight one because its stretchy enough to use a gaiter or a watchcap or a sweatband.
Neck Gaiter, 1 ea
I can see some utility for a neck gaiter in the cold months, but I see more utility for a long lightweight one…more dual-purpose theory here. I like these Mission gaiters because they’re comfortable, stretchy, and multi-purpose. You can, like the neck gaiter, use it as a sweatband or a makeshift watchcap.
Conclusion
So that’s the Packing List Manifesto. There is nothing that says that you must obsess over inconsequential details or minutiae. You can simply buy the standard, run of the mill, bare bones sewing kit and be just fine. Until you aren’t. I like to personally vet all of my gear. Am I extra? Absolutely yes. Am I wasting time or money. Absolutely not. I’m not rich enough to buy cheap gear and have to keep replacing inferior items time and time again. I want my gear to work exactly as I intend every time I use it. And I like the peace of mind…the reduced cognitive load…that I enjoy knowing that all my stuff is good to go. I don’t have to worry about my maps, my pace, or my notes because I bought the right map case, the right pace beads, and the right notebook and pencils. Gear matters, so spend some time getting the right gear.
